3 hotels, 1 megacity: Experiencing Seoul through everything from urban cool accommodations to an ultraluxe hotel

The first time I went to Seoul, South Korea, back in 2015, I was overwhelmed by the sheer size of the city. Enticed by every neighborhood, I couldn’t decide where to explore, where to eat and where to stay. Back then, reality helped with the last question; I was points-poor and on a backpacker’s budget, so a hostel with a bed I could afford was the hostel where I stayed.

A decade later, I returned to the Korean capital city. But this time, I had a plan. Now, as a seasoned travel journalist specializing in hotels, I decided to work my way around Seoul to experience it from different perspectives: urban and artsy at the uber-cool Ryse, Autograph Collection; sophisticated and chic at the towering Four Seasons Hotel Seoul; and timeless and touristy at the hilltop Grand Hyatt Seoul, which overlooks the bustling metropolis.

Urban and artsy: Ryse, Autograph Collection

If you want to stay in a part of Seoul that’s vibrant, richly artistic and located near some of the city’s best shopping (think: Korean streetwear, vintage shops, local fashions and art), look no further than Ryse, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection and bookable with Marriott Bonvoy points. The hotel is contemporary beyond measure, from a minimalist entryway with a Blue Bottle Coffee shop to a lobby with hotel merch worthy of a designer department store.

Inspired by a nearby art university, the entire hotel is full of things to admire — and the rooms are no exception. Featuring names inspired by different roles in art, TV or film production (like “Creators Room” and “Editors Suite”), guests should expect a laid-back sense of cool, with amenities like sleek bluetooth speakers, various photographs and prints adorning the walls, mixed tones (like concrete contrasting against bright pops of color) and an overall feel that reminded me of that one friend’s apartment you always wish you lived in.

To get a feel for the fellow guests and local community, head up to the 15th floor to visit the Side Note Club, a bar where I tried a cocktail crafted from cold brew, bourbon, cognac and … cottage cheese — and I enjoyed it!

Outside the hotel, you’ll find ample bars and restaurants, Korean beauty clinics, an outpost of the popular Olive Young cosmetics store where you can pick up all the popular K-beauty products, and Hongdae Shopping Street, where you can (and will) easily spend an entire day shopping.

How to book

Ryse, Autograph Collection starts around $216 or 35,000 Marriott Bonvoy points per night.

Sophisticated stay near the palace: Four Seasons Hotel Seoul

My stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul was unforgettable and an ideal combination of luxury and comfort, with a side of Four Seasons’ signature peerless service, great food and a world-class Korean sauna.

While the hotel is great for both business and tourist travelers, I’d say anyone looking to hit the major attractions, like Gyeongbokgung Palace and Bukchon Hanok Village, will appreciate this hotel’s proximity (especially because car traffic in Seoul can be overwhelming during peak hours).

But honestly, you could spend a whole weekend in this hotel and never want to leave. For starters, the dining alone puts other hotels to shame. There’s a moody underground speakeasy serving top-tier cocktails; the Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Yu Yuan, where the brunch tasting menu left me happy to simply need to take an elevator to my bed for a nap; and Oul, a bar and restaurant serving elevated Korean bar food, including mouthwatering Korean fried chicken and a kimchi-infused cocktail I couldn’t get enough of. And those are just a few examples.

Rooms are elegant and comfortable, with floor-to-ceiling windows showing off the city, soaking tubs and plush beds that were hard to get out of. But when I wasn’t in my room, I was at the Korean-style sauna, where I soaked in pools at various temperatures and just relaxed. And for what it’s worth, there’s an official art to Korean saunas, and that includes bathing and entering the public space fully nude, a cultural experience that I’m glad I embraced because the daily ritual gave me the energy I needed to hit Seoul, ready to see the sights and eat some of the best food in the world.

Read the full Four Seasons Hotel Seoul review here.

How to book

Rates at the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul start in the mid-$400 range, though rates typically hover around $600 and above.

If you book through programs like American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts (available to those holding The Platinum Card® from American Express) or via The Edit by Chase Travel℠ (a booking platform for those with cards like the Chase Sapphire Reserve®; see rates and fees), you can also earn perks like potential room upgrades, property credits, free breakfast for two and guaranteed late checkout.

Timeless tourism near the tower: Grand Hyatt Seoul

Perched on a steep hill near the popular neighborhoods of Myeongdong and Itaewon and the touristy N Seoul Tower, the Grand Hyatt Seoul is about as iconic as they come. From the moment you drive up the tree-lined entrance (check out the way the trees all light up at nightfall), you’ll feel like you’ve landed somewhere special. And from the massive windows in the lobby, you get your first taste of how the hotel, perched high on the hill, offers views of Seoul like nowhere else.

I particularly loved my guest room (an entry-level king) with its calming and sophisticated oak furnishings and the peaceful view of mountains, along with N Seoul Tower in the distance. The hotel is large, and like many Grand Hyatt properties, it offers lots of event space, so don’t be shocked if it’s full and busy. But despite this, I found my room to be a respite from both the hustle and bustle of Seoul and the hotel’s buzzing public spaces. Other great amenities included the clublike gym (which easily rivaled any Equinox I’ve visited), a winter ice skating rink, an outdoor swimming pool and a Korean sauna.

Dining at the Grand Hyatt Seoul is also an adventure in its own right, starting with a huge breakfast buffet in the morning and continuing on throughout the day with a beautiful lobby bar and lounge with afternoon tea and evening drink service, a sushi counter, a steakhouse, a Japanese skewer grill and Paris Bar, where I sat and listened to jazz one evening.

One thing to know about the Grand Hyatt Seoul, however, is that if you’re keen on taking public transportation, the hilltop location can make getting to the subway a little challenging physically. That said, cabs in Seoul are very affordable, and you can get one in seconds with help from the friendly staff waiting to assist right outside the lobby.

How to book

Cash rates at the Grand Hyatt Seoul start around $230 per night. As a Category 5 World of Hyatt hotel, this property offers award nights starting at 17,000 points per night.

Related reading: 

• The best ways to travel to South Korea with points and miles
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